Bernard Chandran Celebrates 30 Years of Inspiration

Everyone would agree that one of the fashion designers that Malaysia is most proud of is Bernard Chandran. He celebrates 30 years of inspiration this year and his collection, UNMATCHED, is a powerful interplay of diversity and unity, where the boundaries between tradition and modernity are layered, and diverse cultures come together in a seamless symphony

Chandran is always enthusiastic and always bursting with new, innovative ideas. Having personally seen him as a young designer who grew in leaps and bounds to become the icon that he is now, we must say that he is an inspiration to so many people in our country.

When he presented UNMATCHED at a memorable fashion event which was combined with an exhibition held at Fahrenheit88, it could be clearly seen that it is not merely a collection; it is a declaration of cultural liberation and inclusivity. The collection speaks volumes about Chandran’s design philosophy for making sense of the world’s complexity through fashion.

Each look comes with a unique story, reflecting the diversity of cultures and ideas that Chandran masterfully brings together as a unified whole. What may seem disparate and out of place at times are beautifully reconciled in Chandran’s visionary creations, offering a unified and compelling aesthetic that resonates with the spirit of freedom, diversity and unity.

A fusion of the old and the new was seen at UNMATCHED. The Malay Contemporary Fashion Show 2024/2025 accentuated Chandran’s commitment to honouring traditional Malay wear while pushing the boundaries and boldly defining its place in contemporary fashion.

Highlights

When More Is Less
A visual orchestra where intricate designs meet stylish innovations and aesthetic patterns. The pairing boldly asserts that more can indeed be less—less ordinary, less predictable, and infinitely more engaging. In the realm of fashion, “busy” patterns and prints often refer to complex designs that are visually dense. These include florals, geometrical patterns or eclectic combinations of prints that traditionally might be seen as clashing when combined. However, Chandran’s approach redefines these boundaries by deliberately juxtaposing and layering such patterns that do not compete for attention and invites us to rethink our perceptions of fashion by unlocking beauty in the unexpected.

One Zip Rules Them All
Fashion is not just about the clothes themselves; it is about how they fit into the life of the wearer. This philosophy is embodied by transforming the traditional two-piece attire into a seamless one-piece through the clever use of zip, while maintaining the appearance of a classic two-piece Baju Kurung / Kebaya. The single zip is more than a design. It illustrates how tradition can be honoured and preserved while being adapted to meet modern needs. Chandran’s creation proves how fashion can enhance the everyday life of the wearer, making style both practical and profound.

Rise of the ‘MakCik’ Power
This look draws on the signature style of women in government departments. These ladies typically don themselves in traditional Baju Kurung / Kebaya but adapt their attire with power jackets or cardigans to suit the chilled environment of air-conditioned offices. Their unique blend of tradition and modernity has birthed a distinctive look that balances practicality with cultural heritage. Bernard Chandran did a remake of this unique style through the lens of luxury and innovation. By reconstructing the classic Baju Kurung / Kebaya and integrating it with the versatility of modern jackets or overcoats, Chandran amplifies the idea into comforting elegance resulting in a one-piece dress concept. This approach highlights a paradox between the structured form and the construction of fabric, ultimately focusing on the body’s freedom within the design.

Denim Dominance
It was interesting to see the fusion of denim with the traditional Baju Kurung / Kebaya. It created a striking and UNMATCHED concept, combining the rugged versatility of denim with the timeless elegance of the Kurung / Kebaya. Despite its structured appearance, the garment comes alive with every turn, showcasing a balance between form and freedom; reinvented to embrace both heritage and progressive fashion sensibilities, offering a seamless fusion of comfort, style, and cultural resonance.

Pop Culture Aesthetics
A clever interplay by this talented designer … by injecting dynamic elements of pop culture and edgy artistry such as ripped jeans and ripped sequined Songket into the classic Kurung / Kebaya tops, these looks immediately stood out as statement pieces; allowing the Kurung and Kebaya to be visually exciting and relevant in modern style.

Other highlights include the cropped voluminous sleeves jacket, new necklines, playful pockets, long coats in brocade, rich embellishments, transparent overlays, men’s inspired tailoring, handworked embroidery and gem beadworks.

All these bring about interesting cameos in the collection. In Chandran’s extraordinary celebration of 30 years in Malay Contemporary Fashion, the UNMATCHED collection unveils a montage of designs that surpass understanding to weave ‘unmatching’ elements into a rational and captivating narrative.

The Exhibition

The exhibition that was held deserves special mention. It was interesting and captivating as it showcased his designs and creations over the years. As a student in Paris in the 1990s, Bernard Chandran began reflecting on Malay traditional wear after being confronted with the suggestion that Malaysian women who wear the outfit tend to be nondescript. “I thought I would never come back to Malaysia. It was freedom,” he says of his days in the French capital. “But when I was there, I learnt that their fashion reflected their lifestyle. When I realised that, I felt that I needed to come back to Malaysia which is my own culture. Malaysia needed me more than Paris needed me.”

Determined to break that perception, the designer entered the world of Malay fashion with the objective of taking traditional wear to the next level. Chandran set about contemporising Malay traditional wear and this involved breaking the rules. An early innovation was to go beyond the standard four metres that is typically used for traditional wear. Another was to explore fabric manipulation using fabrics typically used for tailoring. Driven by the belief that there should be no restrictions on traditional wear, Chandran’s work incorporates a variety of techniques from draping to embellishments that are used in an atypical manner. All of these were on display at the fashion exhibition featuring an archive of 111 pieces which captured Chandran’s contemporary approach to traditional wear. In 2006, Chandran embarked on his first ever Petang Raya collection, which has become a much anticipated yearly event. The yearly showcase is designed to inspire. It is about sharing the craft and elevating a collective sense of style among Malaysians.

At the exhibition, the traditional art of Zardosi was presented as a contemporary art form. The intricate embroidery was displayed as works of art on traditional garment as well as decorative items. The technique, while elaborate is a backdrop for activity, proving that traditional art forms are versatile, to be used in different contexts.

The right accessory can make or break an outfit. For Chandran, fashion does not exist in a void but within a context. It is not just about having the right shoe or bag but the little details that make one’s life fashionable. The pieces displayed at the exhibition are heirlooms collected over the years from past Petang Raya Collections.

Black and white stand at opposite ends of the spectrum … the two stand in stark contrast to one another. One is light and pure, the other is strong and sinister. Bernard succeeds in merging both ends of the spectrum to co-exist harmoniously in a single garment. The colours are a pre-requisite in all his collections but rather than being seen as juxtapositions of each other, they blend cohesively in his collections.

Stately and majestic, the Songket has a rich history that places it at the centre of royal households. By innovatively using embellishments that are not conventionally used, Bernard creates Songket that are “old” in cut and fabric but “new” in embellishments and details.

The ability to combine two elements that are seemingly at odds is something that Bernard has achieved in his quest to ensure the evolution of Malay traditional wear. Fur, leather, denim … have been fused into the Kebaya, Kurung and Baju Kedah giving the traditional garments new identities. At the core, the garments remain modest but are given a soul. A hoodie worn with a Kebaya skirt blend seamlessly, creating a different vibe. When introduced for the first time, these unique takes on traditional wear shook the ground in the local fashion industry. They were game changers.

The Kebaya has an uncomplicated description. It is an outfit that comprises two pieces – a long sarong-like skirt and a form fitting blouse. That simple definition, however, contradicts Chandran’s approach to the traditional ensemble. By using embellishments, playing with fabrics and incorporating different influences, Chandran presents various versions of the Kebaya. No longer confined to our borders, Chandran’s interpretation of the Kebaya moves into the realm of evening wear and cuts across cultures. In doing so, he ensures that the woman wearing a Bernard Chandran Kebaya distinguishes herself from others.

The exhibition also showcased his garments that incorporate just a single-zip, in the process transforming the Baju Kurung and baju Pesak into all-in-one outfits that aren’t visible to the eye. It was also interesting to see the abundance of prints used by Chandran over the years in his creations, which are often a canvas for bold and vibrant prints that give traditional wear a distinct identity. Sometimes complementary, at times contrasting, the ensemble is given character through distinct prints. These can be uniquely inspired by local culture. The staple Ikan Kembung is given artistic treatment, embellished to take on a new form on an exquisite garment. The prints are enhanced with plays on texture, design and dimension, creating creations that are rich and vivid.

Bernard Chandran’s 30 years of Inspiration is clearly in a class of its own. Remakes, New Takes and Updates on his Archives, gave us all wonderful insights into his achievements and brilliant creations over the years.

We look forward to more great things from Bernard Chandran in the future. There is no stopping him when it comes to creativity, enthusiasm and energy in the world of fashion.